In the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, up a flight of stairs that feels like ascending into an attic, lies The Monkey Gallery DINING – a culinary destination that defies convention. As it celebrates its fifth anniversary, the restaurant continues to blur the lines between dining and art, led by the innovative vision of Chefs Hau Tran and Hanh Le. To gatecrash the celebrations, we caught them in conversation.

Đọc bài viết bằng Tiếng Việt

“I’m never going back,” Chef Hau Tran shakes his head insistently. He’s considering the prospect of ever returning to a traditional kitchen; one closed off to diners. Things are different at The Monkey Gallery DINING. Up the stairs, which feels like ascending into an attic, the long, wide counter and open kitchen dominate the space. 

And that’s not the only way things are different. 

Innovative Minds And Edible Masterpieces

Downstairs, The Monkey Gallery DESSERT BAR is decked out like a tiki bar. Chef Hanh Le’s seasonal Okinawa-meets-Hawaii menu, Okinawaii, created with head bartender Trung Hung, features drinks and desserts inspired by the Pacific Islands. 

Past the Japanese lanterns, the bamboo and the bar, the stairs double back – a pause until the big reveal of The Monkey Gallery DINING. Since it opened five years ago, the restaurant, named after its founders’ shared birth animals, was imagined as an art gallery where the food replaces art as the topic of conversation…and consumption. All of which positions Hau Tran and Hanh Le chef-artists. 

In fact, from the beginning, out went traditional titles like “waiter,” “barista,” “mixologist,” and “cook.” Instead, The Monkey Gallery introduced “gallery attendants” – staff dedicated to enhancing guests’ experiences – and “artists” – the innovative minds behind the edible masterpieces at The Monkey Gallery Dessert Bar & Dining. This shift in terminology reflected the establishment’s unique blend of culinary art and immersive dining.

“Actually, I wanted to be a boxer when I was younger,” Hau Tran admits. He would watch it on TV growing up, until a hand injury ended his ambition. Instead, he worked his way earnestly up through the industry, starting as a waiter at a restaurant in his hometown of Danang. One time, when the kitchen was short of staff, he stepped in. And he never looked back, working in restaurants in Hanoi, and at Esta in Ho Chi Minh City, before joining Monkey Gallery DINING.

Hanh, meanwhile, confesses a more unusual entrance into the industry – falling for a Japanese comic book. “It was called Happy Bakery, or something like that,” she laughs. “I remember the protagonist made pastries. And they had this remarkable way of consoling people or cheering them up.”

Eventually dispelling her parents’ doubts about her career choice, she undertook a BA in Restaurant Management, while taking pastry-making classes on the side and part-time jobs in kitchens “to get a taste of what the industry was really like.” 

Chicago seemed like a great city, she wouldn’t have to speak French, and the course was shorter than the 2-3 courses at the CIA, if she continued her training there, so she next enrolled at The French Pastry School, staying in the gritty West Humboldt Park neighborhood. 

A Tour De Force To Celebrate Monkey Gallery DINING Turning 5 Years Old

But one cursory scan of the latest Magic Ticket menu, which runs concurrently with the 4-course ‘Stylish’ menu, shows how artful Hau and Hanh have become. The menu is expressionistically themed /ˈpælət/ and each of its eight dishes is a different color, from blue to red.

Dazzlingly technical and without sacrificing flavor, the menu is a tour de force to celebrate The Monkey Gallery DINING turning 5 years old (we first dropped by in December 2019, a few months after they opened).

“Creating a cohesive menu within the constraints of color was incredibly challenging,” Hau admits. “We had to think outside the box, often pairing ingredients that don’t traditionally go together.” This creative obstacle course resulted in unexpected flavor profiles that have become a hallmark of The Monkey Gallery DINING’s innovative approach.

Highlights include the ‘Brown’ dish that marks the menu’s midway point. “That dish was a real test,” Hau Tran admits. “We combined sea cucumber, oysters, spirulina, and pine mushrooms. But dark colors, especially brown ones, can be unforgiving on a plate, especially. We finally settled on a yellow-brown plate that complemented the ingredients beautifully,” he smiles. “It’s the dish with the most intriguing texture on the menu – everything has this wonderful crunch.”

The ‘Pink’ dish is another uneasy triumph. “We went through five different versions, going from cold vegetarian options to using o-toro tuna belly. In the end, scallops won out. Their white backdrop made color coordination easier, and their quality is consistent.” 

He also happily points out the thoughtful pairing of land and sea elements: radish and seaweed, both of which help contribute to the desired pink hue while adding depth to the flavor profile.

But, perhaps the most innovative dish is ‘Purple.’ It’s a course in which Hau Tran’s creativity truly shines. “I’ve always wondered if we could reinvent Vietnamese soup dishes while maintaining their essence,” he muses. “We ended up combining phở bò with wonton-style wrappers and purple cabbage. It’s our The Monkey Gallery twist on a classic, with the cabbage adding both color and a new layer of flavor to traditional phở.”

Playful Presentations Reflect The Artistic Approach

Although Hanh Le usually busies herself with the desserts downstairs, at The Monkey Gallery DESSERT BAR, she also collaborates with Hau Tran on the sweet additions to the menu upstairs. 

That collaborative spirit, between Hau and Hanh, is evident as they discuss their creative process. “We always start with a brainstorming session,” Hanh explains. “It’s where the magic begins.”

Hau nods in agreement. “During the R&D phase, we’re in constant communication. We share our ideas for ingredients and flavor profiles to ensure a seamless flow between courses and avoid repetition.”

Underpinning that is a rigorous tasting process. “We hold several internal tasting sessions. It’s crucial for giving and receiving feedback. Sometimes, what sounds great on paper doesn’t quite work on the plate, and vice versa,” Hanh adds.

“If I had to choose one dish to show what I bring to the menu, through this collaboration, it might be the Lotus x Cashew x Litchi,” she nods. “It’s a fusion of Vietnamese-inspired ingredients and French techniques, with a playful presentation that reflects our artistic approach.”

However, she’s quick to add that “it’s hard to distill what we do into a single dish. Each creation tells its own story of my journey here at The Monkey Gallery. It’s like asking an artist to choose their favorite painting – impossible!”

So the sort-of neighbors, and frequent collaborators, sat down to talk more, with Hanh Le leading the questions.

Let’s start by describing ourselves as chefs?

Hau Tran: I consider myself to be a free-spirited chef. And I mean that in the sense of not being bound by any culinary restrictions or rules. I like new things. And I’m always studying and researching, trying to find new flavor combinations. 

Hanh Le: I really want to challenge people’s traditional notions of what desserts can be too. Most people, when asked, would imagine traditional sweet cakes, or sweet soups, or even fresh fruit or ice cream. My aim was to introduce people to a whole new realm of culinary delights by transcending the boundaries of sweetness, incorporating a symphony of flavors, textures, and artistic presentations. 

With lots of restaurants serving ‘modern Vietnamese’ cuisine, what do you think makes The Monkey Gallery DINING unique?

Hau Tran: In terms of technique and ingredients, innovations are quickly replicated. For me, one thing that can’t be copied is the chef’s personal experience and perspective. By using those as the foundation of the dishes, The Monkey Gallery DINING really is unique.

Which brings us neatly on to the topic of creativity!

Hau Tran: I think you have to fall in love with the process. Take the /ˈpælət/ menu. I feel that creating dishes with disparate ingredients that adhere to a single color is particularly difficult, but I think we all see it as a great motivation. And we embraced the research phase wholeheartedly. 

Hanh Le: That’s right. And you have to accept there’s going to be lots of trial and error. For me, I wanted to take my training in traditional French techniques, and embrace modern approaches allied with local, exotic ingredients. 

So, if I challenged you to make me a dish with three kinds of flowers could you do it?

Hau Tran: One dish immediately comes to mind. I’d make you pumpkin flowers, stuffed with chicken and mashed artichokes, with a hibiscus sauce. Now it’s my turn. Could you incorporate fish or meat into one of your desserts?

Hanh Le: I think that a true dessert experience should still, satisfyingly, resemble a dessert in some form. I wouldn’t want to confuse diners. But, if forced, I would look to incorporate cured meat or seafood in some way. 

And is there a local ingredient that you wish you could use more?

Hau Tran: Definitely con rươi. It’s a kind of earthworm. I remember my grandma making it for me when I was growing up. I’d love to use it more, only it’s hard to find a stable supplier.

Hanh Le: I feel that the interplay of the wide range of ingredients we have along with the techniques we can use, makes the possibilities almost limitless. 

Finally, what challenges and joys does this open kitchen format at The Monkey Gallery DINING offer?

Hau Tran: I value immediate feedback. I can watch. And I can even communicate with guests. And, from their side, I can elaborate on some of the dishes and the stories behind them. They get to understand our process which unfolds right in front of them, which develops trust. 

Hanh Le: I’d especially love to sit at the counter if I came alone. It’s hypnotic watching the interplay of chefs. For an intimate dinner however, I might take the table at the window. The counter is close, but you get more intimacy. And I’d definitely order the tasting menu. It’s the best way to understand the philosophy of the kitchen.

Hau Tran: I remember one time a table of guests beckoned me over for a chat. When I got closer, I realized it was some friends from Danang who live in The States. Every single year, when they come back to visit, they come by to try the new menu. I guess that means we’re on the right track. And it helps that we’re empowered at The Monkey Gallery to express ourselves without constraints. 

I’m definitely never going back to a closed kitchen.

Photos by Nghia Ngo for The Dot Magazine.